Since moving is a physically taxing event, warming up and stretching are good ideas to help prevent injury.  We will cover some good rules of thumb to follow and tips on the timing of your “moving stretch” that can make you less sore when it’s all said and done.

While many people stretch out when they are cold, it’s a good idea to do a light warm up to get your blood pumping before you perform your moving stretch.  A short walk, some jumping jacks or any other light aerobic activity will work to get your heart rate up and get you read to start stretching.  Also, it’s good to perform some joint rotations at the same time before you start your stretch.  When you do begin your moving stretch, concentrate on the muscles that you will use during your move.  Legs, back, torso, arms, shoulders, and even neck are critical to get loose before you do your move.  A good way to stretch before moving is to perform what is called a dynamic stretch.  A dynamic stretch is to mimic the motion that you will be performing during the move.  Don’t swing to increase your range of motion, slowly extend your motion as far as you can and repeat a few times.  This is a good way to start your move stretch (before you get to individual body parts).

Always remember to breathe during your stretch because it relaxes your body and increases blood flow.  Make sure your breaths are slow (inhaling through the nose, holding briefly and exhaling slowly through the mouth).

When you stretch make sure you never bounce or force the muscle too much as this can cause injury.  Hold your stretches for 15-30 seconds to get past your bodies “myostatic reflex”, which prevents muscles from stretching the first 10-12 seconds.

The following are some stretching exercises you can do before you move:

NECK

Tilt your head down, left, right and up holding each for 15-30 seconds.

SHOULDERS:

Straighten your arm and put right across your chest.  With the other arm grab the forearm and pull until you feel the shoulder stretch.  Repeat with the other arm.  After do some slow rotations of your arms.

BICEPS:

Straighten your arms and pull them behind your back as far as you can.  This can stretch biceps and pecks too.

TRICEPS:

Reach up with one arm and bend at the elbow.  Take the other arm and reach over pulling the elbow toward your head.  Repeat with the other arm.  If you lean in the direction of the stretch it will stretch your torso too.

WRISTS:

Hold your arm in front of you like you are making a stop signal take your other hand and pull back on the base of the fingers.  Repeat with other hand.  After, do some rotations to loosen.

THIGHS: (quadriceps)

Hold on to a door or wall and bend your knee back until you can grasp your ankle.  Pull up slowly.  Repeat with other leg.

CALVES:

Stand with feet flat and slowly lean forward against the wall.

HAMSTRINGS:

Sit on the floor and lean toward your foot.  Repeat with the other leg.  This can also be done standing by spreading legs slightly and reaching toward each foot.  This also loosens the back.

BACK:

Lay flat and pull one knee up toward your chest.  Repeat with other side.  Also on all fours reach hands forward like a cat, this is called the cat stretch and good for the lower back.

These are some quick tips for stretching before your move.  If you follow the warm up tips and stretches before (and after) your move they can help you avoid injury and feel less sore the next day.

If you want to learn how to move a grandfather clock, follow these grandfather clock moving tips.  There are basically 2 areas to keep in mind when moving a grandfather clock:  the mechanical preparation and the cabinet move.

Mechanical preparation:

First, we’ll start with the mechanical preparation of the grandfather clock move because it is the first step in the progression.

Remove the pendulum at its top, lifting straight up to free it from the suspension system.  Wrap it up in some newsprint and sandwich it between 2 pieces of cardboard (like a tall thin mirror carton).  Make sure the cardboard is rigid enough to protect the pendulum from damage.  Next mark the weights with masking tape 1,2,3 or L,M,R to keep them in their proper order and wind the clock ¾ of the way up (if it’s a cable driven grandfather clock).  Then remove the weights and wrap them with newsprint and place them in a small box marking the box with its contents.  After each weight is removed take its cable and tape it to a piece of cardboard, cut to span across the back of the clock. This way the cables don’t get tangled etc.  Take the crank winding key and/or door lock key and tape them to a piece of cardboard that covers the top of the weights box. This way they can’t get lost or rattle loose as they will be the first thing you’ll see when you open the weights box.  Some people may tell you, you can leave the weights and pendulum inside the clock during a grandfather clock move-if you stuff the cabinet with a blanket or other form of packing material, but that is a really bad idea.

Now that the mechanical preparation of your grandfather clock is complete, we’ll cover the cabinet wrapping, and actual moving of a grandfather clock.

Cabinet Wrapping and Moving of a Grandfather clock:

If your grandfather clock has a hood that is removable take it off and pack it.  Also take off any decorative items that can be removed like finials, decorative pieces like antlers or figures, etc, and pack them in the same box marking the outside of the box with a list of its contents.  If there are any glass shelves or side panels that easily clip out remove them and wrap them with cardboard and stand them up for shipping (like a piece of artwork).  The idea is to make the grandfather clock move consist of boxes of “guts” and simple square cabinet to blanket wrap.  If there are any glass panels, doors, etc, that can’t be removed, take some cardboard to cover and overlap them.  Then tape the cardboard to the cabinet but invert or flip your tape over so it holds the cardboard on the clock but sticks to its self and no to the cabinets finish.  At this point blanket wrap and tape securely and the piece is ready to put on your truck.

Lastly, don’t move your grandfather clock on its side or face, move it on its feet just like it stands when it is working.  You just have to secure it to the wall of your truck or brace it in your load so it can’t move.  Too much jostling or movement is trouble during a grandfather clock move.  Once you get to your destination unpack your “guts” and cabinet pieces and reverse the order of disassembly to reassemble.  Complete the cabinet first and then reassemble the mechanical workings of the clock.  Many manufacturers feel that this point its good to have a technician come out and service your clock (kind of like tuning a piano) but that is up to you.  Following these moving tips will ensure your grandfather clock move is a success.

Whether you are moving your computer as part of an office move, or just for personal reasons, there are some computer moving tips to follow to keep your computer safe.  Always follow manufacturers’ directions if you still have the manual, but if you don’t these computer moving tips are a good general guide. 

Use the original boxes and packaging for your devices if at all possible! – The manufacturer may have designed the package to jump off the shelf at you, but they also considered that they don’t want you to get it home only to find that it doesn’t work.  Their containers are generally made to withstand truck delivery as well as small jolts during handling.

Pack the equipment tightly, so it doesn’t get jarred or experience excessive shock by rattling.  Unprinted paper can be crumpled as a simple but effective buffer between your devices and the box in most cases.  Using printed paper can leave marks.

Make a backup of your data! – Your data is generally stored on a hard drive, which is a mechanical item and susceptible to damage from handling.  It’s delicate and you can expect that during the move, there will be vibration and temperature changes.  While attention will be paid to proper handling and the chances of your data being affected are low, you shouldn’t unnecessarily risk your documents, pictures, and music.  Just backup your files onto an external hard drive, USB flash drive, DVD’s, or an online backup service to make sure that your files will arrive safely; even if your computer’s hard drive gives out!

Disconnect all the cords! – Take a picture if you want to, but don’t leave anything plugged in just so you don’t forget where it went.  Any torque against a plugged in cord can result in the connection coming loose, and resulting in costly repair down the road – trust us, we see it all the time!

Label your boxes – When it comes time to put it all back together, it’ll save you time and frustration to know where the needed part or cord is located.

Heat damages electronics – It’s a good idea to leave some room for ventilation in your boxes and also unpack them immediately once you arrive.  Don’t ever leave electronic equipment baking in the sun – boxed or not.

Write “FRAGILE” on all the boxes so you can be extra careful with them.

Recycling – if you’re not going to move some of your equipment, be sure to dispose of it properly since some items like monitors can contain toxic mercury or other elements.

Specific Suggestions for your equipment:

Laptops –

 Store them in their closed position, and if possible place a soft, thin piece of foam between the LCD and keyboard before closing them shut.

Desktop Computers –

 Protect the corners of the computer since they are sharp and usually metal.  You could end up damaging the computer or surrounding objects if left exposed.

LCD Monitors –

Be sure to protect the LCD screen from any sharp objects or pressure.  Even blunt objects can break the delicate Liquid Crystal material.

CRT Monitors –

 These are quite heavy in the front.  Don’t expect the weight to be evenly distributed.  They will tilt toward the front screen, so pack them in a way that they cannot lean forward or roll over.

Scanners –

 Most scanners have a lock on the underside specifically meant to be engaged during transport, so that the scanner bulb assembly doesn’t get knocked around or loosened through vibration.  Engage the lock for transport, and remember to disengage it before using the scanner again.

Printers –

 Ink can leak during transport and create a mess!  Be sure to remove and store ink cartridges in their appropriate holder or at least wrap them and place them in a zip lock bag.

As with any other type of move, use common sense, but if you need some direction these computer moving tips should help guide you.

Moving a pool table can be difficult, follow these steps if you plan on doing it yourself, and not hiring a pool table mover.

1. Unfasten the pockets.  This varies per model table (i.e. leather pockets, vinyl drop pockets, or a ball return).  On a vinyl pocket table, from here you will slide the pocket out from under the pocket opening.
2. Remove the rail bolts.  These are usually directly under the sights on the top side of your bumpers.
3. Remove the rail-pocket assembly.  Again this varies per table.  If you have a vinyl pocket table in most cases there are just a few screws or bolts to remove and this assembly comes completely apart.
4. If you have a ball return table you can now remove the ball return system from under or aside the table, depending on your configuration.  From here you have just a few remaining bolts or screws to remove and the rail assembly comes apart.  If you have a leather pocket table, just remove the few remaining bolts holding the pockets to the rails and slide the pockets out of the rail.
5. Carefully remove the felt from the slate.  Usually there is an adhesive or staples fastening this to the table.  Pliers and patience will be handy here.Rushing anything is a bad idea when moving a pool table.
6. At this time you should now see screws exposed around the top perimeter of the slate.  Remove these screws.  If your tables’ screws are covered by plaster or wax, very carefully remove this material and clear the heads of the screws and remove them.
7. At this time the slate bed is ready to be removed from the cabinet of the pool table.  In most cases your slate bed is in three sections, however in some rare occasions it may be in one piece.  Whatever the case may be this requires two people at a minimum to do so.  Keep in mind that even though the slate is extremely heavy and porous it is very fragile.  It is suggested that your slate be crated for transportation.  If you opt not to crate your slate make sure it is transported laying flat, one piece on top of the other, with some form of padding in between them for cushion.
8. At this time unfasten and remove the table legs.
9. If it is necessary, at this time you can dismantle the pool table cabinet.  It is suggested that if not required to do so, leave the cabinet together for transport.  This will reduce the chances of critical small pieces or brackets from being misplaced or lost.
10. If you have any questions or would prefer not taking on this daunting task of moving a pool table, it is suggested that you contact a qualified pool table service company. It is also suggested that once the table has reached its final destination that it be reassembled by a pool table service technician.  It is not as simple as just following the above directions in reverse order.  There is specialized tuning, leveling, restretching of the billiard fabric, and aligning that only a professional pool table technician will know how to do properly.   Believe me when I say it will be money well spent to have this service done correctly.

Tips for “loading your own truck” is more “rules of thumb” than exact directions due to the fact that every household is different with different amounts and types of items.  However, there are definitely some procedures that if followed will make the process smoother and keep your items in the same condition at the end of the move as they were in before the move started.

PREPARATION/BOXES AND PACKING:

When preparing for your move, make sure all small or loose items like books, papers, lamps, toys, dishes, etc are packed into closed top containers or plastic tubs.  Open top bins like milk crates, or laundry baskets make it harder to stack and way harder to load.  Breakables should not be packed in pliable tubs for protective reasons.  See the article on Packing Tips From an Expert to properly prepare.  The whole idea is the more square the items to be loaded the easier to fit the puzzle together.

FURNITURE:

When preparing furniture for loading, use shrink wrap or stretch film on upholstered pieces, mattress cartons or bags are available at most packing material vendors for beds, and either moving blankets (which can be rented at truck rental locations) or paper pads, (which can be purchased from most packing materials vendors) to protect wood or metal furniture.  Even if you don’t individually wrap each piece before loading, it’s critical to have some type of protection or buffer in between furniture pieces.  Remember, wood against wood is never good, it causes damage.

ARTWORK:

The big thing about artwork or mirrors (marble table tops too) is to stand them up, never lay them down flat. Remember, when you see a glass truck on the highway, the glass is always upright. This method is 5 times safer than laying the art/mirror flat on its back.  To properly pack art/mirrors, see the article Moving Artwork.

GARAGE:

The hardest and most awkward to pack is the garage.  If you have availability to use an additional vehicle like a pickup for items like lawn mowers, and snow blowers, go ahead, If not see Garage and Outdoor Items Packing Tips to prepare.

LOADING:

When movers load a truck, they use a method of loading in tiers or rows.  A tier is a 2’-3’ deep row of furniture that the loader builds from floor to ceiling so the shipment is built in layers inside the truck.  The tier is generally built with the heaviest or base items (like dressers and buffets) on the bottom progressing to the lightest items on the top row of the tier like fragiles, boxed lamp shades, etc.  A typical tier may look like: 2 dressers on the bottom, a row of heavier boxes like dish packs in the middle row and a row of lighter cartons, interlocked dining chairs or other light items on the top row.  If there is a little room still at the top (space permitting), things like small rolled rugs, bundles of mops and brooms, or soft duffle bags are good fill items (often referred to by movers as chowder).  Please remember, to make the items in the tier the same depth so each tier is as flat as possible across the front. After a few tiers it’s not a bad idea to build a type of wall or bulkhead like some beds, a row of tall bookcases or even a couple sheets of plywood to separate the load into sections and help avoid avalanches on the unload.  Use nylon tie straps or buckled logistic straps to help secure the load at the bulkhead.  Repeat this method to the back of the truck finishing the load with garage items.  Garage items don’t stack or fit all that well, just keep your gas operated items like lawn mowers or snow blowers on the truck floor, and try to use padded items to fill in as much as possible around them to create a flat surface for the next level.  Sometimes a sheet of plywood or the use of speed packs (large corrugated bins) to square up the load helps make the next level a little easier to stack.

Generally, these steps and a load that is nice and tight (reducing shifting during transit)keep the shipment safe on its way to destination.  The tier method of loading will also make the load much easier to take down during the unload process.  To get more good tips on loading/unloading your own truck, see: The Don’ts of loading your own moving truck.

 

Although some of these topics seem obvious, you would be surprised by how many people do make these common mistakes, when they decide not to use movers and want to move themselves.

1. Don’t Move your refrigerator or freezer full of items.
2. Don’t tip your fridge or freezer on its side; it can damage the compressor, etc.
3. Don’t move flammables, explosives, corrosives in the load.
4. Don’t use lots of open topped containers like milk crates or laundry baskets, they can tip and make a mess and they don’t stack well at all.
5. Don’t load the feet of an item directly on top of a finished piece, they will dent the finish.
6. Don’t remove the drawers from dressers.
7. Don’t leave shelves in anything like bookcases, armoires, take them out.
8. Don’t pack hardware, screws, parts, etc in a box.  Tape them to the piece they go with (on the back or inside the drawers).
9. Don’t lay a flat screen TV on its back (and if moving in cold weather, don’t plug it back in until its reacclimated to room temperature).
10. Don’t move a washing machine, unless it is completely drained, doing a load of laundry the day of the move is a mistake.
11. Don’t load thin legged tables on the bottom of the load as a base, they can’t handle the weight.
12. Don’t load live plants in open pots loose in the load.  It’s a mess waiting to happen, it also isn’t good for the health of the plants.
13. Don’t move gas powered machinery unless gas is drained out completely.
14. Don’t load lighter fragile boxes anywhere but as the top of the load.
15. Don’t run a strap across the width of the truck to support hanging clothes it doesn’t work very well.
16. Don’t load artwork, glass table tops, marble tops, etc or any flats on their back, stand them up.
17. Don’t move pressboard pieces fully assembled if you can avoid it, disassemble them as much as possible.
18. Don’t load furniture against other furniture or truck walls without proper padding or buffer (pads, cardboard, paper pads, blankets).
19. Don’t move fish tanks with water or fish in them.
20. Don’t move any pets inside their cages within the load.
21. Don’t drink alcohol during the move, it impairs judgment in loading and driving and increases the chance of damage and injury.

TABLE LAMPS:

Table lamps are usually 8” to 30” tall and sit on top of a piece of furniture like an end table or night stand.  The best way to move this type of lamp is to remove the shade and harp (metal frame that holds the shade) and keep them together as one unit.  Then remove the bulb from the lamp (make sure the lamp is off and unplugged so the bulb is cool).  If the bulb is left in the lamp it can put extra torque on the neck of the lamp and possibly break it.  Multiple shades can be packed in a large box marked fragile as long as the harp from one lamp doesn’t interfere with the next shade, if it does remove the harp from the shade by unscrewing the finial at the top and mark all with masking tape.  Bubble wrap or wadded newsprint should be used on the inside and outside of the shades to secure and prohibit shifting and or rattling around the carton while providing support.  Once the shades are packed, the lamps can also be packed together in a separate carton from the shade (height and width permitting).  A bottom cushion of bubble wrap or wadded newsprint should create a 3” base in the bottom of the carton.  The lamps should be wrapped with bubble wrap or lots of paper (even old towels, etc would work).  Make sure the lamps within the box are secure and don’t have any rattle.  Finish off with another 3” of wadded newsprint all the way to the top of the carton.

POLE LAMPS:

Pole lamps are usually 5’ to 7’ tall.  The lamps usually stand on the floor and similar rules as table lamps with the first order of business being the removal and securing of the shade apply.  Pole lamp shades are often rigid plastic or glass.  They should be unscrewed until loose, removed, and the securing screws or ring reattached to the lamp.  The shade should be packed in a carton similar to the method in packing a floor lamp shade with a wadded paper based, secured wrapping and wadded paper top.  The body or shaft of a pole lamp needs to be supported when transporting to prevent damaged due to the fact that the base is usually much denser and heavier than the pole itself.  A pole lamp carton is a good way to prevent damage with the lamp standing upright when shipped.  If a carton is not available, use extra wrapping around the shaft of the pole lamp creating a cylinder type shape. This should help prevent damage even if the lamp is laid on its side.

These tips should help transport the majority of lamps that are in most residences.  Remember that many of the rules of moving are interchangeable for breakables, china and lamps and once the rule of thumb are learned they can be applied over and over.

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Whether using piano movers or doing it yourself, these are the steps to  move a horizontal or baby grand style piano.

1. Use 3 men for a petite or baby grand, at least 4 men for a parlor, ballroom, or concert grand.  If the piano is going up or down flights of stairs, use at least 4 men.
2. Use a box, tub, or speed pack (moving bin) to keep the parts together.  Wrap all finished items in pads, and place all hardware in a box.
3. Remove the music rack or “lyre” by pulling forward toward you.
4. Take the top or lid off by removing the pins with needle nose pliers, covering the jaws with cloth or tape.  Have one or 2 men hold the lid while one man works the pins free.
5. Take the hinge pin out of the prop (2 pieces) and remove it.
6. Remove the pedal assembly by removing the screws that attach it.  There are braces at the back of the assembly that fit into slots at each end, secure the assembly when removing the screws so the braces don’t drop.  Mark the attached push rods left, middle, right as you face them so there is no confusion at reassembly.
7. Roll up a pad and tape it in 2 or 3 spots so it stays in the shape of a tube.  Place the tube on top of the closed keyboard to keep it from opening and closing when the piano is placed on its side.  Take 2 pads and overlap them to completely cover the top of the piano.  Use tape or rubber bands to secure.
8. Place a piano board running parallel to the flat side of the piano.  Attach 2 piano straps to the board to secure the piano.  The raised lip of the piano board should be at the keyboard end of the piano.
9. Remove the left front leg by positioning 1 person under the piano at the left end of the keyboard.  2 others should support the same corner.  If there are screws the person underneath should remove them and then turn the retaining block so that the long end points away from the leg.  Before actually removing the legs the person under the piano should move out from underneath it while the 2 others lift the corner up.  Mark the legs left, right, and back as some pianos have legs that aren’t interchangeable.
10. Lower the left front corner down onto the piano board.  Lift the piano while lowering so excessive stress isn’t placed on the 2 remaining legs.  Position the piano to an upright position onto the piano board.  Make sure the sound board is secured before moving the piano on the board. The keyboard end of the piano should be tight against the raised lip on the board
11. Remove the 2 remaining legs, making sure that one person holds the piano steady.  To remove a leg, slide it toward the center of the piano until it is free and can be pulled out of the slot.  It is called a key and slot method of attachment.
12. Strap the piano to the board with 2 straps making sure additional padding is placed between the piano and the strap so the edges of the piano aren’t dented or rubbed.  Tie the loose ends of the straps together for more security.
13. The piano is ready to move.  There are 4 handles on a piano board so it can be carried or a 4 wheel dolly can be placed underneath the board to roll the piano out to the transporting vehicle.
14. If possible use a vehicle with a lift gate, otherwise a ramp or walk board is an OK method to get the piano up onto the truck.  The piano should be transported on the board and strapped tightly in the load.

SPINET:

Spinet pianos are the smallest of upright pianos (spinet, console, studio and upright).  They are generally 36”-39” tall and 58” wide ranging in weight from 250-300 pounds.  2 men can handle these, unless flights of stairs are involved.  If stairs are involved, a 3^rd mover is probably a good idea.

CONSOLE:

A console is a little larger than the spinet measuring 40” to 43” tall and approximately 58” wide ranging around 300 to 350 pounds. Like any spinet, 2 men can handle without stairs and a 3rd man is better when flights are added.

STUDIO:

Studio pianos are popular in schools and music studios because of high tone quality.  They are generally 45” to 48”tall and 58”wide. The weight usually ranges from 300 to 400 pounds, and the preferred crew size should be 3 movers without stairs and 4 movers with stairs.

UPRIGHT:

This is the largest and heaviest of the four pianos; they range from 48” to 50” tall and weigh 400 to 500 pounds, with the width of 58”. These pianos require a 4 man crew and can be even heavier if they are the “player” variety due to more internal guts.

PETITE GRAND:

Petite grand pianos are the smallest of the horizontal pianos measuring 4’5″ to 4’10″ long.  At least 3 movers are required for all horizontals because of disassembly of legs, removal of lids, music racks, and pedal assemblies.  A “piano board” is also required for proper moving of horizontals.  If the piano is moving up or down flights of stairs, a 4^th mover is recommended.

BABY GRAND:

This is the most popular size of horizontal measuring 4’11″ to 5’7″ long. 3 men are fine for “baby grands” unless flights of stairs are involved, then a 4^th mover is a good idea.

PARLOR GRAND:

A parlor grand is similar to a “baby” ranging from 5’9” to 6’1” long.  All other aspects resemble a “baby grand”.  3 movers are required for moving this piano, unless there are stairs involved, then a 4^th mover should be used.

SEMI-CONCERT OR BALLROOM:

A semi concert or aka Ballroom piano measures about 7’ long.  4 men are preferred for handling this style of piano and anything larger.   A 5^TH mover can be added if there are flights of stairs involved.

CONCERT GRAND:

At 9’ long this is the largest of all the horizontals and requires at least 4 men without stairs and should probably have a 5^th or 6^th man with flights of stairs.

The horizontals are definitely not for novices, because of the complicated disassembly, you should look for a company with extensive experience with these types of moves.

This list should provide you with tips and knowledge, in determining what style of piano you have when calling movers for estimates, and give you an idea of how many movers you will need to have your move done efficiently.  Your accuracy in description can be the difference between the movers being prepared and unprepared to do your move properly.

                                                        

When it comes to moving your wine collection, there are many considerations and tips to consider to ensure a safe transport for your valuable collection.                                                                                                      

The first thing you should consider is getting your wine collection appraised before you move. A wine appraiser will be able to evaluate the quality and worth of your spirits and wine collections, along with telling you proper age of it for maximum satisfaction and fullest flavor.

If you are only transporting a few cases of wine, you may want to move your wine yourself in your vehicle, avoiding too many long stops and any drastic temperature changes. Your wine should be at least 55° of temperature. You also want to avoid your wine being shaken too much as it could result in a loss of flavor.

If moving out of state or long distance, it is a very good idea to check with your local beverage control or the states to see if there are any restrictions on the amount of alcohol brought in the state or to check if  alcohol is prohibited because the state has dry counties.

If you have a large collection you may want to use safe movers, and use national movers versus small movers that are not familiar with this type of shipping.   A major Van line or national mover is a good option to use when it comes to shipping your wine and spirits, A temperature controlled vehicle may be needed and the larger, national movers are generally more equipped to do so.

Additional charges may be added for special transport and you should let your movers know in advance so they can come properly prepared. Commercial airlines are another option for shipping wine, but you should have it professionally packed by someone experienced.  A high value inventory should be completed if Shipping with a professional mover.

Some additional tips you should remember when it comes to shipping wine is to:

Avoid extreme changes of weather and temperature as this can interfere with the integrity of the wine. The best temperature for wine to be stored at is 55°.

White wines are generally less expensive than red wine and are less likely to be affected by the temperature.

Corked wine should be kept on the side or upside down so the cork does not dry up.

It’s a good idea to pack wine in a wine container or a box purchased by a national mover or someone who sells and ships wine and spirits. Don’t pack open bottles and make sure to label your box as fragile and this side up depending on how the box is packed.

Avoid the bottles shaking too much as this can affect the appearance and flavor of your spirits.

After the move is complete, it is a good idea to let your wine rests for about 7 to 10 days before opening.