Whether you are using motorcycle movers, household movers, or moving your bike yourself, here is some information regarding the process.

If you’re using a moving company, siphon out or run the bike out of fuel.  If your move will be a long distance move (interstate, etc), disconnect the battery, and anything that could potentially be damaged, such as antennas, racks, saddlebags, carriers and any other accessories.  The mover will do an inventory of the condition of the vehicle, mileage, etc.  This information is to be verified at destination upon delivery.

The moving company will then ship using one of 3 methods:  Strapping inside the truck (the least efficient use of space), strapping to a special motorcycle moving pallet, or completely enclosing in a wooden crate (this is the safest, but most expensive method).  The longer the distance of the move, usually the more protection is required.

If you are a moving the motorcycle yourself, there are a few different options. You can use a small rental straight truck with a ramp or lift gate (preferred).  Motorcycle straps can be purchased at some automotive stores, or motorcycle dealerships to secure the bike.  They generally can be purchased in sets of 4 to secure the bike in all 4 corners.  These should be attached to sturdy areas like the forks and reattached to the truck walls so the bike cannot move in any direction.

Another option is a closed trailer (like a snowmobile trailer, etc) where the same rules apply as with a straight truck.  Just make sure there are posts or rings on the inside trailer walls to hook the straps to.  The final option (besides riding it yourself) is an open air trailer.  Again straps would be used to secure the bike from all 4 corners.

Things like bike value distance of move, timing and budget all can play a role in deciding which direction to go.  Check with a fellow biker or calling a motorcycle dealership can give valuable insight so you make the right decision.

With any of these methods, the bike may be shrink wrapped or blanket wrapped for additional protection.

When transporting fragiles, vases, or sculptures either find the best movers possible with the most experience, or use these helpful tips to insure a safe trip.

PACKING FRAGILES, VASES, STATUES

VASES AND STATUES  

First, find a box that is 1/3 to ½ larger than the piece being packed.  Plenty of room on the sides is also critical for the safety of the piece.  Mark the box “Fragile” in large letters on 2 sides (not top or bottom) of the box.  If applicable, mark the box “this end up” if the piece warrants it.

Fill the bottom ¼ of the box with packing peanuts or wadded newsprint.  Then wrap the item with either bubble wrap or 3 ply paper pads cut to the correct size.  Remember if the piece is delicate and has thin handles or decorations do not wrap tightly as it will break the handles, etc.  Stand the item up in the box and fill with peanuts or newsprint all the way to the top.  Make sure the box is tight and has no rattle or movement when shaken.  If there is more than 1 item within the box, list the exact number of pieces in the box, and a description of each.  For instance, if a vase has a small top or lid it can be easily be missed and discarded with the packing materials if not identified properly.  A descriptive inventory on the box or a sheet of paper helps account for parts or accessories. 

FRAGILES:  (like figurines, etc)

If durable enough, follow the same rules as with vases and statues.  If they are smaller items, pack into a smaller box 6” to 10 “with other smalls making sure to give ample room between.  List the items within on the outside of the small box.  Take multiple small boxes and pack them in a larger carton marked fragile.  Use a packing peanut or newsprint base, packing peanuts or newsprint around and in between the smaller boxes and all the way to the top of the large carton.  This will give double protection for your pieces.  Remember to never wrap thin or delicate items tightly as they will fracture under the strain.

 With any type of vases, statues, or fragiles, if you have the original Styrofoam form fitting box, it is always the best option.  When purchasing such items, keep the box and store it, you will be happy in the future that you did. 

If the items in question are extremely valuable or delicate crating may be necessary.  Crating is the use of a made to order plywood container for shipping.  Long distance moves are another area where crating is a good idea.  This is definitely a time to contact a professional mover with experience in the field.

These tips should assist in making sure that your fragile items can be shipped from point A to point B without incident.

Moving artwork can vary between a simple self move and needing professionals.  Art size and type and move type can help you determine whether you can move the pieces yourself, you need furniture movers, or art moving specialists.  The next tips can help you choose the proper move option.

First determine the type and size of the artwork that is to be moved.

Smaller pictures

8×11” or smaller should be treated like china, wrapped up and packed in a carton with like sized pieces.   Wadded newsprint should be used as a base and used at the top of the carton as a shock absorber.  If the art is oil on canvas, gloves should be used to avoid oil from the hands getting on the art, “acid free” paper should also be used to wrap the piece to insure the art is not affected by wrapping materials.  “Acid free” paper can be purchased at most craft or art supply stores.

Larger Artwork:

Up to 48”x60” can be packed in a 2 piece picture/mirror carton, a flat carton that can telescope to fit the artwork better.  Cardboard corner protectors, or wadded newsprint can be used in each of the 4 corners to provide a shock absorber.  If the artwork is thin enough, 2 pieces can be packed back to back in the same carton for efficiency.  As with smaller pieces, if the art is oil on canvas, a layer of acid free paper should be used to wrap the artwork.

Extra Large Pictures:

Larger pictures up to 60”x80” can fit into a 4 piece picture mirror carton.  The same rules apply as with a 2 piece picture mirror carton.

With both types of picture/mirror cartons, when shipped they should be placed in the upright position and not laid flat.  Actually if the move is local and very close, more durable artwork can be wrapped and stood up in the back of an SUV, or placed by a mover in what’s called a speedpack  (a 2 ½ ‘ x 4’ open topped bin)  wrapped or separated by cardboard and shipped.  The farther the distance usually means the more secure the packaging.

Special, extremely fragile artwork:

This refers to pieces (like gold leaf frame or valuable artwork) can and should be crated by a mover with fine art experience or an art moving specialist.  These types of pieces are not for amateurs or do it yourselfers.    If a high value article is being moved by a professional, a high value inventory should be filled out, and potentially an appraisal should be obtained prior to the move.

These tips should help in sorting out some of the art moving questions.

TABLE LAMPS:

Table lamps are usually 8” to 30” tall and sit on top of a piece of furniture like an end table or night stand.  The best way to move this type of lamp is to remove the shade and harp (metal frame that holds the shade) and keep them together as one unit.  Then remove the bulb from the lamp (make sure the lamp is off and unplugged so the bulb is cool).  If the bulb is left in the lamp it can put extra torque on the neck of the lamp and possibly break it.  Multiple shades can be packed in a large box marked fragile as long as the harp from one lamp doesn’t interfere with the next shade, if it does remove the harp from the shade by unscrewing the finial at the top and mark all with masking tape.  Bubble wrap or wadded newsprint should be used on the inside and outside of the shades to secure and prohibit shifting and or rattling around the carton while providing support.  Once the shades are packed, the lamps can also be packed together in a separate carton from the shade (height and width permitting).  A bottom cushion of bubble wrap or wadded newsprint should create a 3” base in the bottom of the carton.  The lamps should be wrapped with bubble wrap or lots of paper (even old towels, etc would work).  Make sure the lamps within the box are secure and don’t have any rattle.  Finish off with another 3” of wadded newsprint all the way to the top of the carton.

POLE LAMPS:

Pole lamps are usually 5’ to 7’ tall.  The lamps usually stand on the floor and similar rules as table lamps with the first order of business being the removal and securing of the shade apply.  Pole lamp shades are often rigid plastic or glass.  They should be unscrewed until loose, removed, and the securing screws or ring reattached to the lamp.  The shade should be packed in a carton similar to the method in packing a floor lamp shade with a wadded paper based, secured wrapping and wadded paper top.  The body or shaft of a pole lamp needs to be supported when transporting to prevent damaged due to the fact that the base is usually much denser and heavier than the pole itself.  A pole lamp carton is a good way to prevent damage with the lamp standing upright when shipped.  If a carton is not available, use extra wrapping around the shaft of the pole lamp creating a cylinder type shape. This should help prevent damage even if the lamp is laid on its side.

These tips should help transport the majority of lamps that are in most residences.  Remember that many of the rules of moving are interchangeable for breakables, china and lamps and once the rule of thumb are learned they can be applied over and over.

PACK ONE ROOM AT A TIME: If you pack a little here and there, it doesn’t look like you are making any progress.  Once you finish a room, you can move on.

MARKING YOUR BOXES: Mark you boxes on 2 sides, near the top right corner.  Put down the room:  MBR: master bedroom, K: kitchen, DR:  dining room, BEDROOM 2:  or name of person in bedroom, FR-family room, B: Basement, G:  Garage, AT:  Attic, CR: Crawlspace.  It also helps to put a brief description of the items inside the box (t-shirts, cd’s, kitchen utensils, etc).  Mark the box if it is fragile.

PURGE BEFORE YOU PACK: There is no reason to move something and then to get rid of it.  Discard or donate anything that you don’t want before you start to pack.

CONTAINER SIZES (AND CONTENTS TO PACK):

The denser the contents=the smaller the box.

Looser the contents=larger the box.

Books, files, dvds, etc should be packed in a book box (1.5 cubic ft).

Accessories, knick knacks, food can be packed in medium cartons (3.0 cubic ft).

Clothing and Lamps are good in large cartons (4.5 cubic ft).

Pillows, comforters, lampshades are good in extra large cartons (6.0 cubic feet)

Dish packs are special double walled boxes for breakables, dishes, glasses, and other breakables, and will be covered in a special kitchen packing section.

Mirrors, pictures, wall hangings, are good in a mirror carton.

VALUABLES and CRITICAL ITEMS TO TAKE WITH YOU:

 Pack one or two boxes with critical and valuable items and take them with you.  Pack and take your own valuables, your mover cannot be liable for them.  Pack medicine or anything critical items, like a checkbook, passport, ID’s, birth certificates, in their own box.  Also a box containing items like remotes, TV’s, or Av’s, phones, laptops, garage openers, keys etc, and other electronics in their own box and put them in your car.  Finally movers don’t generally have authority to haul hazardous material, charcoal lighter, flammables, caustics (like battery acid), ammunitions, etc, these are some of the items to move yourself.  Try to use up all of your refrigerated items before moving day, if not right before the move put refrigerated items in a cooler, do not try to move them in a cardboard box.

HOW TO FILL YOUR BOXES:

Pack your boxes to the top, not bulging over or way under.  Humpback or overstuffed boxes don’t stack well or seal well, under packed boxes when stacked can crush.  Pack items so they reach the top.  If necessary, use newsprint or towels as filler so the boxes don’t have any “rattle” to them.  Seal both the bottom (before you fill) and the top once done with carton sealing tape.

MOVER BOXES:

 Use mover boxes if possible.  All movers, most self storage locations, and special box stores or websites are good sources to use for uniform correct moving boxes.  Some movers have specials on used cartons.  Check with your friends who have moved if they may have boxes left over containers.  Wardrobe cartons are generally loaned and rented by the movers and don’t need to be purchased.

With everything use common sense.  Don’t pack items you need daily, a week before the move, don’t pack heavy items with fragile items.  Leave yourself enough time to do a proper pack job.  Packing on the day of the move slows the process down, is inefficient and ultimately costly.

First of all have a garage sale to delete un-needed items.

1. Desks or workbenches with drawers should be emptied and contents packed into cartons.
2. Utility cabinets with shelves contents should be emptied and packed into boxes.
3. 2 or 4 drawer files if not too heavy may be moved full; if there are used towels or paper to secure items in drawers, items like screws etc and items that would rattle around should be packed in boxes.
4. Bolted together Metal shelves don’t necessarily need to be disassembled, shelves that just clip together and plastic shelves should be broken down and taped together in a bundle, ladders need no attention.
5. Only Gas powered tool or machines should be drained of gasoline (and preferably oil), and handles, etc that can be disassembled and or folded over to condense space should be done so.
6. Long Handled tools should be bundled together so they can be placed in a garbage can, taped into group or put in a pad and wrapped up.
7. Hand tool or small power tools (drills, etc) can be packed in small cartons and filled out with newsprint or left in a tool box and latched shut, paper can be used to fill space and stop shifting.
8. Sports equipment can be packed in large cartons, wardrobes, even garbage cans.  The mover may also use a speedpack (large open corrugated, catch all approximately 2 ½ ‘x4’)good for hard to pack bulky items.
9. Bicycles for local moves, loosen the handle bars, and rotate them ¼ turn so they are closer to the same width as the rest of the bike, on a long distance move a bicycle carton is the safest bet to avoid damage.
10. Liquids check with your mover on what they can and cannot take-anything considered hazmat is out

OUTDOOR ITEMS

1. Patio furniture cushions should be removed and packed in a  carton, if chairs can be stacked without damaging them, stack them, if not leave these items loose so they can be blanket wrapped by your mover.

-Umbrella: Use plastic wrap or tape to wrap around and keep closed.

-Grill: If charcoal make sure grill is emptied and cleaned out, if gas remove tank (it cannot be transported by your mover, unless they have a hazmat license).

2.  Pots or Planters should be emptied of dirt and cleaned as much as possible if they can be

Stacked, stack them.

1. Swing sets, gazebos, sheds: should be disassembled prior to the move with the hardware

Either bagged and taped to large piece or cartooned and noted in a log (to keep a notebook of information is helpful during any move), if the item is complicated, take notes or pictures on reassembly and mark or tag joints with references.

PACKING DISHES AND OTHER BREAKABLES: 

 Dishes and other breakables should be packed in a dish pack ( a double walled box).

Start with a layer of wadded up newsprint about 3 inches as a base in the bottom of the box.  Wrap same sized plates together in groups of 4 as follows.  Start with one plate down near the bottom corner of a stack of newsprint.  Fold the one or 2 sheets of paper over so it completely covers the plate, then stack and repeat until you have a stack of 4 plates.  Then fold in the 2 side wings, and roll forward to the end of the sheet of paper.  You will end up with a 4” high dish shaped package.  When placing the bundle in the box, stand the dishes on end, DO NOT LAY FLAT.  Try and keep the first layer relatively the same height and add another 3” of wadded news print as a buffer when the bottom layer is full.

A second layer of consisting bowls, serving dishes, etc is fine.  You can also use coffee mugs or glasses.  Again stand them up and put enough newsprint around handles to protect them.  When packing wine glasses, put enough paper around the stems so each glass is a cylinder.  Wine glasses should not have too much weight on them so if they are in a second layer make the top layer plastic cups, (lighter items), etc. to make the box manageable, but tightly packed with no space left open.  Dish packs that follow the heavy bottom, medium middle layer and lighter top layer work well.

PACKING A LARGE KITCHEN BOX:  

Items that are more durable like pots and pans, Tupperware, bowls, can be packed in a 4.5 cubic foot box depending on weight and density.  Packing smaller items inside larger to conserve space like 3 sizes of pots inside each other, separated by a layer of paper is good.  Always have a buffer layer of wadded newsprint to start, pack the box full to the top even if newsprint has to be used on top as a filler.

PACKING A MEDIUM KITCHEN BOX: 

Items like small appliances, dry goods, even canned goods are good in medium boxes, use the same rule with newsprint as a buffer on the bottom and top.  A wrapping of newsprint around each appliance or item works well.  Remember you want no rattle when you give the box a little shake.

PACKING A SMALL KITCHEN BOX: 

 Kitchen drawers with silverware, cookbooks, utensils, are dense and heavy so a smaller box is best.  Contents of each drawer can be wrapped up in a few sheet of newsprint almost like an envelope or separator, this make less mess and make unpacking easier.  Stack the couple drawer’s contents in each box and fill out with wadded newsprint.

PACKING THE FRIDGE OR FREEZER: 

 For the fridge, get a cooler or 2 , and place the contents in the cooler.  A good way to keep the food cold and secure inside is to add a bag of ice over the top once the cooler items have been place in it.  For the freezer stack in the cooler to the top, no ice is needed.

Always remember to use packing rules of thumb like the denser the items the smaller the box, and pack tight to the top, so there is no “rattle” when the box is shaken.  Follow these steps, take your time, and you can master the kitchen.